The surface is said to be “floating” because it is not directly attached to the sub-floor. The is the easiest method of installing hardwood floors. Todays manufacturers are developing "click together" floors. This type of floor simply clicks together - no gluing required over a thin sheet of underlayment (foam, rubber or cork), that is laid down over 6mm of plastic sheeting. The advantage of installing floating hardwood floors using this method compared to the other two is that it is quick to finish and very easy to clean up. There is also a reduction in noise and moisture damage by incorporating the padding and plastic and it makes the surface softer to walk on. This type of installation is suitable for multi level construction and basement level renovations.
Preparing a Hardwood Floor for a Floating Installation.
Concrete sub-floors are prone to attracting moisture so it is necessary to lay a thin layer of plastic and underlayment to act as a barrier between any dampness and your hardwood flooring. Be very careful to overlap the seams by 6 inches.
Accurately calculate the width of the last row of hardwood to be laid down. If the measurement is less than 1.5" you will need to distribute this between all the rows. The last row usually always needs to be cut to fit.
Choose an outside wall as your starting point. (An outside wall tends to be straighter and more square than an inside wall.) Measure two board widths from this wall and mark a line with some chalk the full length of the wall. As previously stated not all walls are by default straight - so some boards may need to be shaved / sanded to fit.
Installation of Hardwood Floors Using the Floating Method.
Start with the first row, placing glue on the ends of the boards you are joining, making sure to have the "groove" side facing the wall. You are then going to have to put a 1/4'' spacer between the edge end of the board and the wall - this will accommodate for any expansion that may occur.
From here on you will need to apply a waterproof adhesive along the entire lower lip of the grooves and on the top surface of the tongues. On the second row of planks and all subsequent planks, apply a bead of quality moisture resistant wood glue along the entire length of the lower lip of the groove and along the top surface of the tongue, applying glue to all edges. You will want to stagger each board from the adjacent one - no less than 12 inches. Once two rows have been finished give the glue about 3 hours to dry before continuing.
The last board to be laid will more than likely need to be cut so that it fits - don't forget that the 1/4'' spacer still needs to be put down. Twelve hours drying time is recommended before any traffic is allowed. The spacers are then removed and you can start applying a base molding - nailing it to the wall and not the floor and not forgetting to leave room for expansion (1/4 inch).
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